All things wine in Vancouver

Hope you enjoyed yesterday’s first edition of the newsletter. My name’s Jamie and I’ll be writing the food edition of the newsletters, every Tuesday and Thursday.

In a landscape filled with ever more content, how can independent, reader-supported journalism engage and connect with an audience on the go who simply want to be informed?

In my opinion, it’s simple: we’ll bring twice weekly insights into Vancouver’s food and cultural scene, delivered straight to your inbox at a reliable time, with limited ads, no affiliate links, pop-ups, SEO bait, or any of the other now-familiar features of our digital landscape.

We show up, tell you a few things, and hope to get to know you better. We think it’s a better way to do journalism. Trust is key, something I will work towards every day.

Together, with our team, I hope we can open up the city, food, events and news to you in a unique way.

Thanks for joining this ride.

For today’s edition, we’re exploring wine - what to try, where to buy and industry news. Each edition may have a theme, so stay tuned for something completely different next week.

— Jamie Mah

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EXCITING NEWS TO REPORT 

Wine school is in session and these three women have you covered

It’s unfortunate this happened, but it did and I might as well acknowledge it.

When news broke of This is Wine School, a new concept opening this February in Chinatown, my immediate thoughts rushed back to the heights of COVID-19 in late 2020. It was then where an explosive exposé from the New York Times alleged rampant sexual harassment towards women into the Court of Master Sommeliers. 

This story and the fallout from it — board resignations, expulsions of six prominent members, including Fred Dame, who co-founded the Americas chapter and helped build the organization in the United States — changed the course of the wine world, turning it upside down.

The boys club was to be no more.

At the time it was a big development. The sommelier trade had been on the rise for years ever since the documentary ‘Somm’ dropped on Netflix in 2013. Enthusiasm had grown and interest never seemed higher. For myself, I was in the middle of my own training. A budding wine geek who’d drunk the kool-aid. I wanted in too. It felt exciting to be a sommelier.

So to read the damning feature and all its excess, my stomach dropped. Having worked in the hospitality trade my entire career, was I shocked to see what was said? No. If you take men and women and combine late nights and alcohol, there are bound to be some bad actors who cross the line. It’s unfortunate but a sad reality.

Regardless, news stories such as this one can flip the narrative if enough pressure is applied. Landing on the front pages of the New York Times is definitely a great way to begin.

Within a few years much has changed. This past March, The Washington Post detailed many of the new developments since the New York Times original feature. I urge you to read both. Additionally, if there’s one thing I’d like you to take from either column, it’s the following quote from the Post:

• “There are few opportunities in life to make an impact on gender and diversity issues,” Theobald said in a recent interview. “We may be a small organization, but we have a degree of influence on the industry and maybe even society.” — Julie Cohen Theobald, Operations Director, Court of Master Sommeliers of Americas

I remember reading it at the time and thinking of Vancouver, how so many of its great wine leaders and sommeliers were women. What this topic meant for their careers and this industry as a whole. How their efforts were shepherding a new breed of women in this field. Whether this scandal influenced the status or career choices of potential female sommeliers in any way remains to be seen. But the new direction was there. Something had changed.

• Go deeper: Back when I began my old blog Track and Food in 2016, I did a deep dive on how to become a sommelier. Do check it if you’re curious about the trade and want to know more about the Court of Master Sommeliers and its competitor, the Wine Spirit Education Trust.

In light of this, what Jenna, Maude and Kelcie (for the record, they are three established and highly respected women in the local community) are doing just a few blocks from my home is spectacular. They’re moving this trade forward with fresh insights and boundless enthusiasm. Don’t believe me, just attend one of Maude’s Apero Mode tasting events. They’re a lively affair.

To see them owning their own fates and directing their vision together is why progress is something I always believe in. I’m excited for their journey and that of all females in this trade.

Class details

Classes begin February 1st. You have the option of doing WSET courses from beginner Level 1 to advanced Level 3. Prices range from $450 - $1,675.

You can also choose from their four alternative options:

• Great Love Stories in Wine

• What the Heck is Natural Wine

• Underdogs & Deep Cuts

• Wine Pairing ABAs

These classes don’t involve exams, just straight learning and fun.

Prices range from $95 - $125

WINE RECOMMENDATION

Savennieres: The best wine you’ve never tasted

To keep the wine energy flowing, let’s talk about the Loire Valley in France. I’ll probably do something along these lines every few weeks.

INTERVIEW

Interview: Jenna Briscoe, Café Medina’s wine director and This is Wine School’s co-owner

Restaurant news

Saying goodbyes

Beloved Dock Lunch has closed for good.

Scout dropped the news this past Saturday. Sad to hear. Dock was a fixture for that community for a long time.

My good friend Dan worked for owner Elizabeth Grace Bryan at one point and I did a few pop-ups with him and a former chef friend a few times. Great space, unique concept and a darling for lunch. Unfortunately she wasn’t able to give a proper send off. Curious to see what she’ll come up with next. I sense this chapter isn’t closed as there’s a GoFundMe posted on her Instagram page.

You can help donate to her relocation efforts if you’re so inclined.

Oh Carolina closing its doors

In conjunction with this sad news, popular café Oh Carolina will also be closing its doors this coming Sunday, Jan 15. This has been in the works for a bit as the team from Gooseneck Hospitality, my good friends James and Josh, try and focus on what they do best, building rad restaurant concepts.

They have two awesome spots on the horizon this year (more will come on those over the ensuing months), with Oh Carolina being the odd duck out within their roster of restaurants and bars. Sad to see it go, but I understand the decision.

Funnily enough, I remember the day co-owner James Iranzad told me he’d signed the lease to the space. We’d met up at Bar Susu for a drink with him detailing to me the news. Seemed an odd fit considering their brand to date, yet, in Gooseneck fashion, he and his team were able to construct and build out a really impressive space in a short span. Summer patio nights were a hit from the beginning.

Here’s hoping whoever has taken over will continue some small semblance of that legacy.

Dining Guide

Suyo Modern Peruvian

TOP PHOTO

Considering I have After 8s on my coffee table at all times, this picture had me at hello immediately. Well done Sam Payne and Parkside Brewery. Well done.