You may discover Yume Dining is your new favourite lunch spot

I have a confession to make — I tend to avoid eating at too many Japanese restaurants in Vancouver, especially sushi spots.

I can hear the deep indrawn breath as you read that sentence. To be clear, you will not find a bigger fan of all things Japanese. The January I spent there was one of the most rewarding food and cultural experiences of my life.

No, my dislike comes from what tends to be over-Westernized, all-too-similar Japanese food, especially sushi. There are only so many rolls one can eat before it all starts blending together into a haze of sweet sauces, mediocre tuna and overly tacky rice. Vancouver punches above its weight, but distinction in a crowded space is hard unless you’re the best of the best.

Luckily a newer restaurant in Olympic Village, Yume Dining at 410 W 2nd Ave, breaks that mold by offering something somewhat more unique.

At first glance, it will feel like many other newer restaurants. With pale yellow walls and accompanying light-coloured wood, plants and lots of open space, the design could fit any new Instagram-aesthetically inclined restaurant.

But all of that is instantly forgotten the moment you’re greeted by the staff. The warmth, friendliness and attentiveness are sincere, even for an introvert like me. One of the owners themselves was taking orders, greeting at the front of the house and cleaning up dishes alongside her staff. It’s clear she cares deeply about her business.

The menu is Japanese to its core. You have an assortment of fish options, like nigiri and sashimi, classic appetizers like miso soup and edamame and meals like donburi. And pasta, of which I did not try.

The owner shared my sentiments about Vancouver Japanese restaurants. She explained she wanted to offer something a little different in the neighbourhood. Their focus is on futomaki, a somewhat less common food in the city, hence why their website claims to be the “very first futomaki specialized restaurant” in Vancouver.

The Japanese version of Korean kimbap, futomaki, is an oversized rice roll wrapped in seaweed and features fish and seafood. Korean kimbap is made the same way, and can have similar ingredients but features things like danmuji (pickled daikon), ham, burdock root and egg. Families use different ingredients, and it’s a popular holiday meal. The major difference between both is Japanese futomaki uses rice vinegar and sushi rice, while kimbap uses sesame oil.

Yume has 10 different types of futomaki, from salmon, to tuna, to vegetables. The common ingredients include carrots, cucumber, deep fried prawn, crab meat and pickled radish. I ordered the salmon.

The roll is big and barely fits inside my mouth. It also comes with a homemade garlic aioli-like sauce. It’s unique, something I’ve never tried, and unlike the more sweet sauces that accompany many rolls, it’s creamy and subtle, with barely a hint of garlic. It complements the futomaki rather than overpowering it.

Whereas nigiri is delicate and unobtrusive, a light flute playing a few beautiful tones, futomaki is an orchestra of ingredients, flavours and textures crashing together. The blaring crispy deep fried prawn, delicate soft salmon, sweet Japanese egg, crunchy carrots, it’s a finely orchestrated dance conducted by an expert. It’s sweet and salty, and everything in between. And at $16.50, it’s not bad on the wallet either.

You can order a larger version that comes with a popping eyes-induced extra portion of meat and five extra rolls. It’s big, enough for two people and only costs between $22-$25. Order one and you can save the rest for another meal.

The restaurant is staking out a position as the place for futomaki. It’s a smart business decision, and judging by the sizable lunch crowd, it seems to be working. But there’s a sleeper dish that many might miss. And that’s the humble katsu sando.

For anyone who’s visited Japan, the 7-11 katsu and egg sandwich is an exquisite taste of an otherwise simple food. Fried pork, creamy eggs and stick sweet tonkatsu sauce, sandwiched between thin slices of milk bread. Is there anything better?

Well, here in Canada, Yume’s katsu sando has it beat, and at $9 before tax and tip, I don’t say this lightly, may be the best sandwich deal in the city. Elegantly plated, proportionately large for the price, it’s listed in the appetizers, but this could, in fact, be a meal by itself.

The pork is deep fried to a golden rich brown colour, each bite with the requisite crackling crunch of panko, the pork meat thinly battered, salty and juicy. The egg salad is smooth, with little chunky bits spilling out. The bread is soft, I assume milk bread based on the taste, but doesn’t collapse as you hold it. They say the sauce is house made, and I believe it.

Can you tell I’m a fan? Because I am.

Beyond the high quality of the meal, the price is the other winner. Assuming you order one dish, you’ll be hard-pressed to spend more than $20 on the meal, less than $9 before tax and tip if you get the katsu sando. Spend an extra $5 and you’ll have futomaki leftovers. The price is a steal in this city, especially at a place with such well made food.

For anyone in Olympic Village, Yume Dining is a budget friendly lunch spot with decidedly high quality food. The welcoming staff and unique menu make it a standout in a city teaming with so many Japanese restaurants. 

Atmosphere: Bright, spacious and welcoming.

Noise Level: Not quiet but not loud at all. A great place to take someone for a quiet lunch meal.

Recommended: Futomaki, any meal with katsu.

What I wish I had ordered: Donmahawk.

Drinks: Licensed, with sake and soju.

Price: $-$$. For the size of the meal, this is an absolute steal, especially the katsu sando 

Other details: Vegetarian options, wheelchair access, open from 11:30-9:30 every day.