Tradition and excellence at Yuji’s

• Name + address: Yuji’s from Japan, 2083 Alma St., Vancouver

• Type of food: Japanese

• Appetizers: $4-$16

• Mains:$15-$70

• Diet: seafood, meat, vegetarian

• Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

• Licensed: Yes

• Website: www.yujis.ca

I fell in love with Japanese cuisine long before moving to Vancouver.

In fact it was when I’d moved to Toronto and dined at Nami Sushi, an institution that more than 40 years later continues to operate out of its original location on Adelaide St., that I became (excuse the pun) hooked.

It had been many years since I’d enjoyed a meal at Yuji’s from Japan and it was good to walk into that familiar room. It was just as I’d left it.

I already knew this but I guess I needed reminding that when you see “calamari” on a Japanese menu, it usually means squid tentacles.

This was one tender and deliciously seasoned dish. The squid was sweet beyond the crispy curry shell and the seasoning was moderate with a slowly building heat that never reached a serious apex.

Agedashi tofu is an easy dish to love. Cubes of warm silken tofu dusted in potato or tapioca starch, deep fried and topped with scallions and grated daikon radish all sitting in a warm bath of soy-scented dashi stock.

Yuji’s interpretation is classic and that feeling of warm tofu custard, while simple, leaves you feeling as if you are indulging in a well-deserved luxury. The dashi stock was stellar and I found myself spooning the remainder out of the bowl.

Then it was on to a real custard: chawanmushi. This is a warm and savoury dish of dashi-laced seafood and mushroom enrobed in egg custard. I was first introduced to this magical concoction at Toronto’s great Sushi Kaji and ever since I’ve looked to acquire as many experiences as possible.

This recipe typically involves fresh shiitake, scallop, shrimp and some other form of seafood and that was the case here but was also topped with slivers of fresh Yuzu peel. A little went a long way and it was welcome.

Dinner concluded with a sashimi platter of Striped Jack, Yellowtail, Flounder, Bluefin tuna, Cardinal Fish, Sea Bream, Amberjack and Hokkaido Scallop.

As I’d come to expect from a master like Yuji, the fish was superb and beautifully cut to the perfect size. Dipped into the seasoned soy, every mouthful was an uninterrupted pleasure.

As we know, there is always the next great thing in the news that we “need to try”. That’s the function of social media and those influencers that know very little. 

Yuji’s from Japan however is for those diners that are educated in this cuisine and understand tradition and excellence.

If you find yourself in Vancouver, pay a visit to Yuji’s from Japan and give yourself over to the Omakase experience. You’ll be glad you did.