Straight & Marrow shows late-night food can be exquisite

If New York is the city that never sleeps, then Vancouver sleeps a bit too much. It’s a city where the server ushers you out after 10:30 pm. Politely, sure, but insistently. Most places aren’t open that late.

In my travels around the world, the best cities, the most fun and memorable, have late-night food options. But not just any food, good food, the type of meal you’ll remember well past the sixth cocktail, that sticks with long after the hangover subsides. 

It’s a space Vancouver falls short. Maybe you’ll find a small hotdog stand at late into the evening. But don’t expect much culinary excellence, as kitchens have long been closed. 

Of course, it’s hard to blame a restaurant for keeping traditional hours. Never having worked in the industry for any consistent amount of time, I can only absorb what I read and watch.  Late-night dining means late-night clean-up, which means late evenings at home. Transit only runs so late. It’s not an easy job. 

Places that do stay open tend to attract a very different crowd. Restaurant workers need a spot to eat, and these places become waterholes for the just-cashed-out cooking staff, who, having created elaborate meals, want something a little better than burgers and fries.

Straight and Marrow, located at 1869 Powell Street in East Vancouver, fills that void. 

An otherwise standard front entrance, if you’re not careful you’ll miss the sign as you walk by. Even though it’s not that dark, the space feels dark, soaking up any light that filters in. With rich brown lacquered tables, a light and almost orange wood bar backstop, framed by a classic chalkboard, it’s a welcoming space, for both the better-dressed evening-out crowd, or casual shorts-wearers like me and my friend. And, let’s be honest, at 10:30 pm, who really cares what you’re wearing?

One thing you instantly realize is the bartender, server, (owner?) is friendly beyond just the niceties. You can tell this is part of the place’s charm. A frank, straightforward conversation, beyond the food, makes the place feel special, a space that, if you live nearby, could easily become your neighbourhood restaurant.

As has been covered in other reviews, the place focuses on the curioso, the ingredients most diners shy away from. Chicken skin waffles, lamb neck and sweetbreads, it’s home to the discarded elements most of us never think, or try, to cook with. A chef’s dream. 

We had originally visited it with the intention of a post-dinner drink-till-we-can’t-walk spot, on a list of cocktail places I wanted to visit, but the food was too intriguing to ignore.

We ordered the bone marrow ($19) to start. Served in a massive hunk of bone practically cleaved in two, it was topped with thin slices of pickled shiitake mushrooms and chicken crackling. Scraping out the gelatinous fat rendering, layering it onto a fresh slice of bread, the smell wafting up as you bite down, the rich fat and sharp pickled mushrooms rolling around in your mouth… Is there anything better tasting? Oh, and it comes with a small arugula salad. Healthy!

After recovering from the dish, we ordered the escargot toast ($17.5). Heaps of mushrooms and thick rich cream were splayed across the plate, dotted with little pockets of perfectly prepared escargot, tender and fragrant. It’s a rich meal, the perfect salve to soak up all that liquor (or prepare you for more).

The menu changes, but the team here has a beat. Meat and more (obscure) meat. There’s rabbit gnocchi with squash puree and lardons, a classic pork belly, chicken liver tarte tatin and a classic duck breast. It all feels French-inspired, without the white tablecloths, and a server who is actually happy to see you. (Yes, that’s a stereotype, which I will only half apologize for to my French readers).

Where the place also shines is in its drink menu. I admit that by this point in the night, taking notes on each drink became near impossible. I blame the lagers at It’s Okay earlier in the evening. 

The cocktail list is breath of fresh air. As the bartender explained, it’s a balancing act between creativity and approachability, what the team wants people to like versus what they know visitors will like. On one side, the 9 State Sour with Mezcal, lemon, lime and orange bitters, and on the other, a drink like Fat Panda, a butter-washed unaged rye with pandan syrup that pushes the envelope on comfort. 

But amidst the sea of drinks, there was one that stood out. More and more places are experimenting with savoury elements in their cocktail menu. The Straight & Marrow ($15) cocktail may be the best example of this trend. With marrow-infused Brandy, Benedictine, beef stock, red wine, lemon, orange, black pepper and cardamon bitters, it’s truly in keeping with their dinner menu.

The entire drink had, in the wine parlance, what you might call a round flavour, with no harsh edges or bitter taste. Beef stock lingered in my mouth with each sip, mingling with the orange juice and red wine. Like the bone marrow that preceded it, the drink is heavy, verbose, almost filling you up. I can’t say I would order a second, but it’s a must-try for the adventurous drinker.

It’s not a place for everyone. Vegetarians? Classic cocktail drinkers? I’m not sure I’d recommend it. But Straight & Marrow makes no attempts to hide who they are. If you love meat, French food, strong drinks and like staying up late to enjoy a good meal, you’ll feel right at home. In a city with restaurants trying to appeal to everyone, their laser focus is commendable. 

Vancouver may never be a city that never sleeps, but with more places like Straight & Marrow, maybe it can become a place that always eats.

Noise Level: Few people were there, but it doesn’t seem like it would get loud. 

Recommended: Bone marrow, escargot

What I wish I had ordered: Rabbit gnocchi, chicken liver, lamb neck

Drinks: $14-$17, relatively affordable for Vancouver cocktails. 

Price: $$-$$$, small dishes were larger than most places I’ve been to, most sharing dishes between $18-$22. Good wine list and has beer. 

Other details: One veggie dish, wheelchair accessible.e