A perfect sandwich at Say Hey Cafe & Deli

Where the New York bodegas, where I spent much of my time this summer during my trip out east, are utilitarian, cramped spaces, churning through people quickly and efficiently — still with much love mind you — Italian sandwich shops tend to be slower and sparse, focusing on a few great ingredients.

Last year I stumbled into one in New York and left with a whole new appreciation for the Italian deli sandwich. Mozzarella cheese, salty prosciutto, on a fresh-baked hoagie… What a sandwich.

Vancouver has a few Italian delis, but ideally, there would be more. Every trip to Cioffi’s results in an inevitable purchase of their porchetta sandwich, a steaming, salty, meaty, heaping pile of a sandwich. Yet, in downtown Vancouver, there are almost none. You’re more likely to find banh mi than Italian deli sandwiches. Not that I’m complaining.

When I lived in Chinatown, it was two years before I stumbled upon Say Hey Cafe & Deli at 156 E Pender St. I blame the pandemic and the general excellence of Chinatown’s food scene.

The place has an understated style, with simple pictures on the wall, and an elongated walk to the ordering counter. Pictures of bikes and skateboards, a massive close-up picture of a gigantic zoomed-in hoagie, and 90s rap pumping through the speakers, it’s going for a certain vibe. I dig it. 

They’ve got both breakfast and lunch sandwiches. Prices are $14 for a roll and $16-$18 for a full sandwich, along with cheaper options for their vegetarian options. Breakfast sandwiches are $9 for a roll and $12 for a hoagie, a steal for pricey Vancouver breakfast options. 

The menu feels like a mix of traditional Italian, with some creative flourishes from the team. You’ve got your traditional Meatball Hoagie with the aforementioned balls in San Marzano tomato sauce, or the Beauty, with Mortadella ham and aged white cheddar. But then they throw together La Bomba, with hot soppressata, smoky chili mayo and chili garlic oil. You don’t see that in an Italian deli.

Feeling spicy, I ordered La Bomba. The first thing you notice is the bread. More chewy than crunchy, it’s rolled in sesame seeds, giving it a subtle sesame flavour with each bite. Torn chunks of mozzarella complement the spicy ingredients. The Soprassata stood out, a nice-sized portion included, layered with fat. It’s a moderate level of spice, making it very eatable without needing too many napkins.

Many years ago I also had the Meatball Hoagie. It was a perfect representation of what you want in an Italian sandwich. Thick meaty meatballs, sweet tomato sauce spilling out with each bit and a layer of melted provolone stretching from your mouth as you eat. 

It’s not cheap by sandwich standards, but that’s okay because the quality of the food is worth paying for. While it may not be your typical Italian deli, the sandwiches are the closest thing I’ve found downtown. If you’re craving a sandwich, you can’t go wrong with Say Hey.