Five hidden gem restaurants in Vancouver

In any city there are those restaurants everyone flocks to. Eleven Madison Park in New York or Joe Beef in Montreal are notable examples. Their reputations have given them this audience. It is far and wide and all encompassing. Marketing metrics no longer apply or are needed. The masses come aplenty.

Here in Vancouver, we have a myriad of such places. Think Blue Water Café, Joe Fortes, Elisa and Gotham to name just a few. These are institutions in our city. Popular joints most never miss.

But I ask you, what about those restaurants who are off the beaten path? That swath of gems hidden from plain sight. Dare we forget or miss out on their substance?

With so much to pick from and so few nights to roam, the daunt of choice can cause paralysis. New is coveted but old standbys hang in the balance. Where to go is that inevitable quandary so many lament and debate. That is until today. With an insider's lens, here are a few hidden spots worth your time and hunger.

Fat Mao 

• A modern noodle bar by Chef Angus An with a focus on Thai-style noodle soups.

• Opened in 2015

• They have two locations.

• Downtown (

• Chinatown (217 East Georgia St.)

• Open daily from 12pm - 8:30pm

Angus An is one of Vancouver’s best known chefs and entrepreneurs. He worked under Normand Laprise at Toqué in Montreal and has established himself as a true visionary regarding Asian cuisine. His flagship, Maenam, has won several awards over the years as it still runs busy ten years deep.

However, even in spite of Maenam’s status, it’s his small little noodle shop, Fat Mao, which to me is what really separates his empire.

In a city overflowing with tasty Ramen and Pho joints, Fat Mao hands down stands above them all. Portions are generous, and flavor abounds. For starters, you cannot miss his two signature salads, Wing Bean and Fried Egg. Both are incredible as they showcase dynamic seasoning and freshness. They’re the perfect benchmarks to begin your soup journey. From there, honestly, you cannot go wrong with any of the choices for soup.

The soup Nazi himself would be proud.

The Khao Soi Chicken Curry is probably the most popular as it has a hearty richness all curry lovers will adore. With a large chicken leg to pick at throughout, this is a soup that definitely hits all the hallmarks of traditional Thai.

My favorite by far though is the Hot and Sour Pork. Lighter in tone compared to the Khao Soi, but with a markedly brighter mouthfeel, the Hot and Sour Pork has all the makings of what balance delivers. A touch hot with a touch sour, your tongue will hum with pleasure. I’ve ordered it so many times the servers don’t even ask when I walk in the door.

Overall, the staff are exceptional. They are attentive and gracious. Take out is very common and ideal on those dreary rainy nights. Soup travels well.

Their beer selection is seriously on point, with numerous local brands on hand, the Burnabarian (a Belgian-style session ale) from Dageraad being a notable standout. Tiger lager features prominently, naturally.

They’re jammed often by locals in the know. Delicious food done quick and easy. A true highlight of Vancouver’s culinary scene. Can’t be missed.

For a more thorough understanding behind Angus and his restaurant philosophy, check out this podcast interview I did with him a few years back while he was on tour for his new cookbook.

Finch’s Tea House

• Coffee and Baguettes since 2004

• They have two locations.

• Downtown (353 W Pender St.)

• Strathcona (501 E Georgia St.)

• Weekdays 9am - 4pm

• Saturdays 10am - 4pm

There are few places I frequent as much as Finch’s. It’s in me to love a delicious sandwich. If strapped to an electric chair and forced to choose my last meal, a hearty baguette from Finch’s is where I’d go. Fresh baked bread mixed with simple ingredients is a recipe for success in my mind.

I can also humbly assure you that anything you order will satisfy every ounce of comfort you have within. They have nearly 20 years of experience to back this up. This statement, ironically, is what makes this selection so fascinating.

Finch’s is well known for sure, but then they are not. I discuss them frequently but hardly know of anyone who frequents them, and yet, they remain busy and relevant. In the grand scheme of things, you won’t find them on any must hit lists for Vancouver (don’t worry, I’ve looked), which is why they remain such an intriguing little jewel. Everything they offer is humble and executed with taste in mind.

Both locations feel stuck in a time machine from the 1920s. Old fridges and cash registers give off the vibe of small town diner. Don Draper would feel right at home here. The only thing they miss is good old fashioned pie. But I digress. Can’t have everything.

The staff are young and hip, with most having been born past the grunge era, yet, surprisingly, all seem stuck within its ethos. It’s a feel and I dig it.

While you order, don’t pass up on the tray of cookies that is set before you. Chocolate chip or oatmeal chocolate chip are the options. Both are delectable and highly sought after. It’s not uncommon for them to sell out before noon. As for the baguettes themselves, all are tasty, but if pressed, I fancy the avocado with edam and walnuts the most, even though the prosciutto, pear and brie can sway my decision at any moment's notice.

Insider tip: the full vegetarian on whole wheat toast is incredible. Often overlooked.

Sadly, no alcohol available. This is your classic lunch joint for quick bites or take away. They do a tonne of deliveries, so don’t fret if you want to order to go. They’re built for that. Downtown is smaller and more bustling, so I often opt for the Market in Strathcona. Tends to be more chill.

Shizenya

• The first japanese restaurant in Vancouver to serve organic brown rice sushi, organic greens, vegetarian friendly menu.

• They have two locations.

• Downtown (965 Hornby St.)

• West Broadway (#160-1333)

• Weekdays 11:30am - 9pm

• Saturday, Sunday and Holidays 12pm - 9pm

In a city with as many sushi options as Vancouver, it can seriously be hard discerning which to choose from. There are spots that are popular, but ultimately suck, The Eatery being a notable example.

Then there are those which are popular but are hard to get into as they fashion themselves more of a scene than anything. Think Miku and Minami. Both are standouts from the same company, but not necessarily the type of place one wants to frequent on a boring Wednesday night after a long day at work. That is unless aburi sushi (torched box sushi) is your thing, then this is where you want to go.

Even still, sushi and its provenance for many is something akin to grab and go food, not necessarily cuisine one wants to enjoy for hours on end. Quick and easy yet delicious is where I see most landing.

Toshi’s is an excellent spot up on Main Street as they offer great value but I find the selection and quality to be lacking.

This is where I find Shizenya, an excellent company with two locations that serve top notch sushi that’s affordable and extremely delicious. They are definitely a hidden gem and part of that is with their philosophy. They only produce brown rice sushi. Uncommon for sure, but oh so flavorsome.

The menu is simple and easy to distill with a vast amount of dishes leaning along the vegetarian side of things. This isn’t your big list of nigiri kind of spot, so if that’s what you’re after, you might want to pass.

However, if lightly pressed and fresh as can be sushi is your jam, then from what I’ve tasted around town, they have everyone beat. Their fresh Mango California roll is a real treat. Served with, yes, real crab, avocado, cucumber and mayonnaise. It’s not going to blow your mind regarding originality, but it will satisfy any and all of your sushi cravings.

I say this because the rice is on point. Brown rice adds a layer of texture and dimension giving each bite a weightier mouthfeel. There’s much more to savor.

Excellent miso soup can be had, naturally, as well as top flight chicken gyoza. Having run a sushi bar of my own in the past (in Saskatoon, it was called Sushiro. Was open for 18 years. It would kill almost all sushi restaurants in Vancouver if it had been here. Le sigh.) my lens towards gyoza is always one of skepticism until proven otherwise. Almost everyone does them poorly. They’re either too hard, under seasoned or just flat out boring.

The ones at Shizenya are on point. Not as good as my old boss’es, but close.

Lastly, as was and is the case regarding my feelings towards the Fried Egg salad at Fat Mao above, Shizenya, does in their own right a fantastic salad, one I’m hard pressed to consider as one of the best in the city.

It’s their simple Spring Mix salad and boy does it pack in flavor. Arriving to you in a big brown bowl, it’s just as you’d expect. Plenty of greens, tomatoes, avocado, carrots, cucumbers, all layered together with a classic miso dressing. Not what you’d expect I know, but definitely a highlight “must try” while you wait for your rolls to arrive.

Simplicity is the game here and Shizenya excels at offering great value and exceptional quality. Venture in or order to go, you won’t be disappointed.

Bufala

• An independent restaurant born out of the passion for pizza and good drink.

• Opened in 2014

• They have two locations.

• Kerrisdale (5395 West Boulevard)

• North Vancouver (3280 Edgemont Boulevard)

• Monday - Thursday 4pm - 10pm

• Friday - Saturday 12pm - 10pm

I can’t help it, it’s in me to always crave pizza. Oftentimes, when at home, a simple veggie mediterranean from Panago will suffice. I know, I know, I know. I can feel your eye rolls even as I re-read that sentence myself; however, as boring (or possibly gross) as that might sound to many of you, convenience has its perks.

Nevertheless, a good slice is hard to beat and when I’m out and in the mood for the journey, nothing beats Bufala. My heart lies with their Kerrisdale location, a spot I’ve been frequenting since when they first opened. Cute and quaint, it has all the hallmarks of classic family dining. Take Mom and Dad here.

Booths litter along the wall as big windows carry in a bevy of sunshine. Owned and operated by two good friends and prominent restaurateurs, James Iranzad and Josh Pape (here’s a fun interview I did with the two of them a few years back for Scout Magazine), simplicity has its place within these four walls.

Bustling with locals in the area nightly, the menu reads just as you’d hope. Originally they only offered a few appys and pizza, but have in the past two years added on some pastas and mains. This no doubt comes in line due to the opening of their sister spot in North Vancouver, which sees itself more as an Italian restaurant than pizzeria. Their Kerrisdale location, in my opinion, is all about the pizza.

The meatballs, burrata and caesar salad are must-haves to start. For pizza, you definitely have to get the Calabria. It’s seriously one of the best pizzas I’ve ever eaten. With spicy sausage, manchego (the most underrated cheese ever), red peppers, garlic confit and marinara, ordering a second to take home won’t be far from your mind. Next is the Pesto & Ricotta. A complete shift in taste and profile to the Calabria, this pie melts with richness and decadence. Think basil & dandelion pesto, fresh ricotta, pine nuts and parmigiano. Definitely add the Prosciutto Di Modena to round out the nuance and texture.

Owner Josh was in his time one of the best bartenders in the city. The beverage program pulls from his expertise with ease and delight. The cocktail program is approachable, well executed and on point.

A curated selection of local beers dot the menu, with current highlights from Port Moody’s, Parkside Brewing, and East Van’s, Strange Fellows. However, even in light of these excellent offerings, this is a wine heavy room. Bottles pop at almost every table, with my go to being whichever Labrusco they happen to be pouring. Bright berry fruit and subtle fizz compliment all the standouts I can’t wait to savour.

Their Edgemont location is a darker, more intimate affair with a broader menu all around. The vibe has date night all over it. Can’t be missed if you’re in the area. Two off the beaten path gems worth your attention and pizza cravings. Do hit them up.

Cuchillo

• Latin American small plates creative, entrees & cocktails in arty, industrial-chic surrounds

• Opened 2013

• 261 Powell Street

• Sunday - Thursday 5pm - 10pm

• Friday and Saturday 5pm - 12am

Is it possible to be a hidden gem if you’re located next to the best restaurant in the city?

This question swirls in my head each time I visit this lovely spot. Owned by well known and savvy industry vet, Stuart Irving, Cuchillo offers everything one might want on a Friday night.

Long and open with exposed brick throughout, the vibe is happening. Energy flows from the big bar, long tables and open kitchen. You see everything and revel in the setting. The only thing missing is a dance floor and live mariachi band. Irving’s penchant for rock and roll notwithstanding, if he ever chooses to open a second location, the merits of adding both should be on the table.

Margarita and mezcal factor prominently with Irving’s list of unique mezcal’s being one of the best in the city. Flights are in the cards and worth exploring.

The menu reads creative and inspired. Assorted ceviche and tacos litter throughout. The Queso Fundido is sublime and an excellent starter. All tacos come in twos with the Cabeza de Puerco being my fave. Think crispy fraser valley pork, negro refrito, serrano tomatillo salsa verde and chicharron.

The mains are where I think they really standout. I’ve tried all four with the BC Angus Steak Bavette Asado having me at hello.

Go for a date or with a big group of friends. Enjoy the loud music, the tequila and delicious food. It’s been around for awhile as it has all the hallmarks of an established veteran. Its charm still glows strong. A strong recommendation to mark off your list.