Gary’s, a new French-inspired spot, is turning heads in South Granville

The text message from the restaurant buzzes, inquiring if I’ll still be coming to the restaurant. Frantically I reply yes. 

As someone who, as I’ve told my friends repeatedly, is mortified by being late, there’s nothing more stressful than telling a restaurant that, yes, you plan to still be there, but secretly knowing you have no idea when your friends will arrive. 

Restaurants are controlled chaos, a well-orchestrated dance between guests, front of house and cooks that can go off the rails if a guest, or in my case, multiple guests, are late (or very late). It’s not the best way to start a visit, especially one you’ve been anticipating for weeks.

What is clear when you walk into Gary’s, located at 1485 W 12th Ave in South Granville — even if you’re very few minutes late — is that they operate a tight ship, and is a restaurant that clearly is becoming more popular even at over four months old.

Founded by industry vets from The Mackenzie Room and Say Mercy!, the restaurant owners, according to Vancouver is Awesome, want the place to exude “relaxed fine dining influenced by the seasons.” 

The small but spacious spot feels refined and has laid-back precision. And yes, such a description is possible. With subtle beige colours throughout, along with wood tables, and thin glasses, it’s the opposite of a place like Mount Pleasant Vintage and Provisions. It feels like a restaurant-style you’d find in Sweden or Denmark. Clean and simple. 

From the expert staff who greeted me, to the chalk lettering of the wine of the day, to the excellent staff knowledge, it’s a place, and a group of people, that took pride in their little restaurant, especially as I chatted with the staff. 

And the pride is warranted. The waiter’s suggestion of wine, a natural one, which I, of course, forgot to write down and will inevitably be gone as they switch out the daily offerings, was crisp and light, a natural red wine you could drink at just about any occasion. Spot on selection. It may not be a wine bar, but you could easily imagine having a few in the afternoon.

Midway through the evening, we enjoyed a bottle of red that distinctly had the flavour of jalapenos. It was spicy, strong and distinct. It was the drink of the night. Heck, it was the best wine I’ve had in months. I’ve asked the restaurant for the name of the bottle, and will update when I get it. 

The waiter informed me the place was French-inspired, with a focus on fresh seasonal ingredients, and dishes that rotate frequently. Think early St. Lawrence before the accolades rolled in, or before it became impossible to book a reservation. 

As my friends arrived, the well-oiled front-of-house machine graciously made room for a fifth friend who joined. With only 90 minutes until the next seating, it was time to order. 

We started with rye loaves with caramalized onion butter. It came with four fresh small loaves and needless to say, I had three of the two orders we made. The radicchio salad was crisp and fresh, highlighted by a strong blue cheese with a smattering of apples. The simplicity and freshness of the ingredients stood out. No over-dressed salad here.

We continued the appetizers with the steelhead trout along with a cold egg gribiche sauce and some sourdough bread. The fish was velvety smooth, perfectly cured and fell apart as you took a bite. 

The tartare was a lighter affair, which I realize is odd to say for a pile of meat and sauce. The tarragon mayo was subtly placed on top, with the recommendation to stir it together. Nothing overpowered each other. The homemade chips were a nice addition. I’d love to have a bag of those at home. 

The standout item, which I hope they never remove, was the squash with a mint redcurrant pesto, ricotta salata and buckwheat. The combination of flavours, sweet and tartness, the perfectly cooked squash… It’s the type of dish you wish you wish all restaurants had. 

• Editor’s note — my poor photo skills do not do the squash dish justice…

Moving onto the mains, the ling cod with was fine, cooked well but no flavours that stood out, while the flageolet beans, lardons and green cabbage could’ve featured as their own dish. The combination of the two felt like the rare miss from the evening. 

The pork cheek was well cooked, with a lovely addition of chanterelles. Heavy for sure, but that’s expected with French cooking.

Along with the squash, the risotto was the dish I would most recommend. Cooked perfectly, a taste that was both tender and firm, the preserved lemons cut through strongly and the hazelnuts provided a nice crunch that balanced the the risotto. Ten of out ten, no notes. 

As the clock ticked down to our departure, we were informed we couldn’t order dessert. As someone with a sweet tooth, it was a big disappointment. I’m not saying I only came for the sticky toffee pudding, but a friend had shared a photo of it and, well, it was picture-perfect. 

But lucky for us, the staff were able to extend our stay and dessert was back on the menu. And indeed, it was truly lucky, because they were worth every dollar. 

The chocolate mousse was dense, coupled with a light bergamot cream. The two were meant to be together combining to reduce the richness and sweetness of the mousse.

The sticky toffee pudding, with vanilla custard and cornflakes, ended the evening on an even higher note. Rich, crunchy with velvety smooth custard, save (stomach) room and money for it. And bring a friend to finish it.

This is a confident team, both front and back, that clearly has high ambitions. In a city with not as many excellent French-inspired spots as I’d like, Gary’s delivers, executed to perfection by a team hoping to stand out, even as we threw them a few curveballs. They couldn’t control my lateness, but every curveball we unintentionally threw at them they handled with a professional zeal. 

The execution was matched perfectly by the food, with standout dishes you won’t forget. But be sure to visit soon. Before you know it, they’ll be as booked up as St. Lawrence.

Atmosphere: More subdued, not a super fancy spot but also wear something better than a t-shirt. An intimate place where you’re close to the next table.

Noise Level: Not loud, able to hear very easily, but small so noise does carry.

Recommended: Squash with a mint redcurrant pesto, risotto, sticky toffee pudding.

Drinks: Moderately priced but very high quality, focused on wine (including natural ones) with only a few cocktails.

Price: $$, with dishes ranging from $16 to $36, affordable for the level of quality.

Other details: Vegetarian options, limited seating, booking available online.

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