El Cafecito brings Mexican influence to coffee innovation

At Vancity Lookout, we believe in transparency for our readers. I was invited to visit Cafe Antico in its early soft launch. As always, the opinions shared are my own and are not influenced by the invitation to visit.

What is left to innovate with coffee? 

Starbucks has beaten it to death with their frappuccino and flavoured drinks. Smaller shops have followed, as consumers demand more extravegence. Stumbling upon a new coffee shop is an experience of small deviations, high-quality coffee of course, but it’s rare you find something new.

El Cafecito, at 1596 Johnston St., is owned by the Alimentaria Mexicana team on Granville Island, is pushing the boundaries of coffee in new ways. The menu offers three unique drinks influenced by Mexican flavours, each one bringing something different. 

Horchatas are a popular Mexican drink, usually made with ground rice, vanilla and cinnamon. It’s a sweet drink, both cold and hot, that has its roots in Spain. Different variates can be found in places like Oaxaca and other countries.

Too much sugar, like in one I had at a roadside stand in a Denver suburb last year, and the drink devolves into a headache-inducing dose of sugar. Done right, and it’s an easy-sipping subtle delight.

The team at El Cafecito have taken a classic horchata and combined it with coffee, calling it a Horchatte. It’s a smooth, sugary coffee, that tasted more creamy than your regular latte, with a strong hint of cinnamon and vanilla. It’s a perfect match and it’s hard to believe I’ve never tried the combo before.

Can corn and coffee go together? With this drink, it does. Dubbed the Mesoamericano Brew, it’s a thick, almost chunky drink made from masa, the same corn-based product used in tortillas. Essentially, it’s the coffee version of an atole, a Mexican breakfast drink.

It can be described as having a round mouthfeel, a feeling that lingers after each sip, almost coating your tongue. Some may not enjoy the sensation, but it grew on me. It’s thick, almost like soup and feels hearty, even for a sweet drink.

The final coffee was the Nitro Cafe De Olla. It’s a nitro coffee made with sugar cane, the same type of sugar you’d find in a Mexican Coke, as well as orange and cinnamon.

It had the smoothness that all nitrous-infused drinks have, the complex fragrance and depth of flavour you’d find with an expensive cocktail, and the sharp sweetness that accompanies sugarcane drinks. From a creativity standpoint, this hit all the notes and is about as different a coffee drink as you’d expect. 

The drinks were exquisite, if a little expensive, at $6.25 to $6.55. Yet, it’s hard to argue it’s not worth it, given people regularly pay that much for a latte.

Where El Cafecito may find it more challenging is breaking into the breakfast space. When I went, they offered three small breakfast burritos, priced at $6 before tax, including beans and cheese, egg and chorizo, and beef and beans. 

While downright affordable for breakfast in Vancouver, I suspect that’s mainly because of the size. For some people, it may be just enough, but I was left barely satisfied. I’ll be the first to admit I eat, a lot, but the tortilla size is small, and along with the amount of filling, is about the size of your hand. 

Luckily, you won’t be unsatisfied with the flavours. Made in the same kitchen as the restaurant, the beef tortilla had an intense richness that paired well with the beans. It’s not the prettiest to look at, but as the owner told me, the vision is as a grab-and-go option, much like the cafe culture in his hometown. It’s certainly better than an Egg McMuffin.

Overall, it’s a winner, but it’s also rather basic for a burrito, especially in an era where visitors demand extravagance.

The cafe also serves as a small shop, with purchasable homemade salas and tortillas, as well as dried chilis like pasilla and tabaquero. You can also purchase coffee from Agro Roasters, which they use for their own drinks, and is an affordable price at $13 for a bag. 

I tried the Salsa Jalapeno, which is made from jalapeno chili, garlic, and cilantro. It is indeed hot, but manageable, with a tart, bright taste that would instantly improve any homemade burritos or tacos. 

El Cafecito is an ambitious endeavour, and after talking to the chef and owner, a reflection of himself, exuding the tell-tale signs of someone who loves what they do and sees an opportunity. He also told me they plan to innovate on the drink and food menu. The food could use some work, mostly on the portion sizing, if they hope to win over a fickle breakfast crowd. But they’re pushing forward coffee in the city in exciting new directions, and I hope they keep experimenting.