Don't Argue Pizza has the best New York slice in Vancouver

This summer I gorged myself on New York pizza, in New York. I waited in lines, paid outrageous prices, and loved every second of it, each bite a revelation. While Neapolitan continues to be my favourite, a trip to New York will have even the most ardent Italian pizza fans second-guessing themselves.

Vancouver itself is blessed with some excellent Neapolitan pizzerias. Gastronomy Gastown, Just Pizza, Via Tavere, the list goes on. But New York-style? That no-bend, crispy bottom dough? Not so much. 

That is, until I stopped by Don’t Argue Pizza at 1321 Commercial Drive. I am happy to argue with anyone that this is the best slice of New York pizza in Vancouver.

Don’t Argue Pizza is not a new joint, though the ownership has changed. It began in 2014, ending its run in 2019. The brand was eventually bought by the team behind Via Tevere Pizzeria and opened up in Caffé Soccavo earlier this year. Both Don’t Argue Pizza and the cafe share space. It’s a bit confusing from the outside at first, but you’ll soon forget it after you get inside. 

Upon entering, you’re greeted by a wall of Bianca Di Napoli Crushed Tomatoes, arguably the best-canned tomatoes around, rows of the classic Italian soda Brio and heaping bottles of San Pelligrino. It’s a bit much, maybe trying slightly too hard, but I’m a sucker for any place featuring Bianca Di Napoli products. 

A thick glass wall holds back the large beautiful pies. A classic Margherita sits next to not a pepperoni pineapple but a Pancetta Pineapple, as well as a Sausage Kale and 3 Cheese. 

New York-style pizza is different than normal pizza. The dough has a higher hydration, allowing for a longer cooking time. Rather than blasting it for a minute in a 900-degree wood-fired oven like a Neapolitan pie, the dough is baked slowly, crisping up the bottom and the crust. The mozzarella needs to be low in moisture so it can withstand the longer cooking time.

I choose the Vokda Pepperoni. Picking up the slice, you can immediately tell there’s a high level of craft here. There’s almost no flop, indicating a well-cooked dough. The first bite elicits a crispy crunch, the perfect consistency for a New York slice.

Besides the dough, I always look for how the cheese has melted with the tomato sauce. The best slices allow the two ingredients to mix and mingle as the heat breaks down the cheese, creating a white and red slurry atop the dough. A+ here. 

By swapping in vodka sauce, each bite has an extra hint of sweetness beyond just the honey they added in a way that really complimented the ample number of salty Jersey pepperonis. Swapping the sauce is a great idea, something more places should try.

I’ve found a bad crust can kill a New York slice. Cooked too long or left out in the display, the dough takes on a tougher, chewy texture, forcing you to rip through it with your teeth. This was the case at the viral Scarr’s Pizza in New York.

This wasn’t the case at Don’t Argue. Chewy like a baguette, it tasted as fresh as if it had just come out of the oven. One point for Vancouver’s New York pizza, minus one for New York’s pizza.

You can also order a full pie, with prices ranging from $25 to $36, depending on the ingredients. Slices range from $3.75 to $4. It’s a bit pricey for the size, but it’s worth the cost.

Vancouver isn’t New York. But if you want to experience the city’s famous pizza and save on a pricey flight out east, there’s no better place in the city than Don’t Argue Pizza.