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- A tale of two world's - living and dining in Vancouver's Chinatown
A tale of two world's - living and dining in Vancouver's Chinatown
The complexities of this neighbourhood and some suggestions of where to eat and drink
I’m not going to lie, living in Chinatown can be a trip. I love it some days and struggle with it others. For starters, its food and drink scene is seriously amazing. By far the best in the city. But then there’s the constant sirens, a staple I’ll never get used too.
There’s a duality that comes with living in this area. You see two different world’s all the time. Homeless men sleep on the street just down from my apartment entrance, while Fat Mao, one of my favorite haunts for a bowl of soup, is just around the corner.
I pass by businesses knowing full well the depths of addiction and poverty that sit on either side of me. It’s hard to see daily and I’m trying my best not to become numb to those who struggle.
But that’s part of the irony of this neighborhood, again, a vast majority of Vancouver’s best bars and restaurants reside here. It’s as if divine fate led poverty and capitalism to land in the same neighborhood and it asked the citizens of Vancouver to choose which they care more about. Sadly, I doubt many could.
Yet, even in spite of this dilemma, Chinatown’s character clings to a hopeful breath of optimism. New restaurants and businesses continue to join the area, bringing with them a renewed confidence that better days lie ahead. We saw this firsthand this past Sunday.
“Lunar New Year symbolizes a time of new beginnings and renewed hope,” said Vancouver Mayor Ken Sim.
“I am delighted that this year the traditional Vancouver Spring Festival Parade returns to Chinatown and that we are once again able to celebrate with our loved ones.” - Global News
I couldn’t agree more.
But be that as it may, for those looking to make a living serving food and drink in Chinatown, their fate is tied to how bad things get on their doorstep. Frustration and irritation present themselves more commonly than empathy and kindness.
It’s a weird dichotomy so many inner cities face. Locating that symmetry of not leaving one behind in the pursuit of running a business is a hard balancing act. This division is one I see daily and it will continue for some time.
“Poverty is a relationship involving poor and rich people alike”; though treated as if part of two different worlds, “the rich…wield enormous influence over the lives of low-income families.” (317) And they do so in a basic way. “Not everyone living in a distressed neighborhood is associated with gang members, parole officers, employers, social workers, or pastors,”
— Mathew Desmond, Poverty and Profit in the American City
A tale of two worlds indeed.
Finding comfort and understanding between the two has become a daily exercise of compassion and hopefulness. I aim to never lose sight of this.
A day of food and drink in Chinatown
Breakfast: Hunnybee Bruncheonette is the spot. Located at the corner of Union and Gore, this quaint gem has given immense life to this brightly lit corner. Hailing from the awesome team from Gastown’s Bird & the Beets, breakfast here is top flight. If you can get your hands on the Shakshuka before it sells out, do it!
Insider tip: Come back for delicious pizza Wednesday to Saturday nights when Hunnybee flips to Thank you Pizza.
Coffee: Just off Main Street on Pender is where you’ll find Propaganda, one of the best coffee houses in town. They do all the nerdy coffee shit you’d expect.
Lunch: Just down the street from Hunnybee is Harvest Community Foods, a small space grocer with delicious noodle soups. They’re clean and hearty and hard to beat. Number 19 has always been my favorite.
Don’t miss: The small pints of Earnest ice cream sitting in the freezer off to the side.
Dinner: They won two Michelin (one was for service) stars and are one of the best dining experiences in the city. Kissa Tanto cannot be missed on your tour. Dark, sexy and alluring, this second floor hotspot will instantly grab you.
Cocktails: The Keefer Bar is everything Chinatown. A nightlife must see as the mood will strike once you pass the heavy curtain. Indulge and let loose.
Pro tip: My good buddy Mickey DJs on Monday nights from 9pm-1am. He spins 90s hip hop. A fun treat.