Why chili crisp needs to be in your pantry - and how to use it

There is life before chili crisp. And there’s life after chili crisp.

Maybe I’m being a bit melodramatic. But once you start down the path of having your own chili crisps at home, life gets ever so more flavourful.

Crispy, sweet, smokey, crunchy, describing chili crisp is a challenge because each brand has their own unique approach. 

My experience began, as it does for many, with Lao Gan Ma, a staple of Chinese grocery stores and fridges. But once you start there, you want more. 

I then proceeded to purchase one called KariKari from Seattle. It’s more intense than Lao Gan Ma, with crunchy garlic bits, and a sweeter base with more intense heat. 

That began a desperate search to find it in Canada, to no avail. I remember distinctly my partner laughing as four KariKari chili crisps spilled out of my bag. The trip to Seattle was for a show, or so I said, but the garlic chili crisp cost more than the tickets.

Not wanting to spend my life savings on a condiment, I embarked on an adventure to find an affordable way to make my own. I didn’t have to go far. Serious Eats, my favourite cooking site, has a very simple recipe. Plus their site is easy to navigate. 

I encourage everyone to give it a try making it. Here are a couple tips I’ve learned from trial and error: 

• Try experimenting with the spice level. If you aren’t a fan of spice, you can remove it

• Get yourself some Szechuan peppercorn, it doesn’t really taste the same without that numbing sensation

• Don’t be afraid of MSG. The addition imparts a distinct umami flavouring that is missing without it

• Remember to fish out the star anise and black cardamom. Nothing ruins a meal faster than a crunchy mouthful of whole smokey black cardamom pods

Here are a few ways I use chili crisp around the house:

Savoury porridge

One of my favourite winter breakfasts, savoury porridge is a counter to the maple and brown sugar variety most people are used to. Instead of sugar, you replace it with an assortment of other ingredients. Here’s the combo I turn to when making it.

Ingredients:

• Savoury oats, whether quick rising or steel cut. I tend to prefer steel-cut

• Eggs, as many as you wanted, cooked any way you want. I alternate between poached and fried

• Chili crisp

• Optional - About 2 tablespoons of grated ginger

• Optional - 5 stalks of green onion/scallions, don’t use the white ends

• Optional - 5 tablespoons of canola or other neutral oil

• Optional - a good small pinches of salt

1. Make your oats the way you normally do. Same with the eggs. Put the eggs in the oats and top with chili crisp.

Optional — I’ve found adding Chinese ginger scallion sauce adds a bit of brightness to the dish.

2. To make the sauce, bring the oil to its smoke point, then pour it into the green onion, ginger and salt mixture. Let it rest before using

Fried eggs

Works well with more eggs, so make some for your partner or save them.

1. Put a pat of butter on a nonstick pan on medium heat.

2. Crack the eggs into the pan. You want the eggs to mostly cover the entire pan.

3. At about the midway or close to end, spoon on a few spoonfuls of the chili crisp.

4. Tilt the pan and let the hot oil run to the bottom. Scoop it up and pour it on the eggs, especially spots that look undercooked. Repeat this a few times

5. Enjoy!

Pizza topping

This is inspired by one of Vancouver’s best pizzas, over at Gastronomy Gastown. The chili crisp imparts salt and spice to each bite, a welcome addition to most pizzas.

1. Make your pizza however you want. I recommend having some honey on it to add sweetness, it pairs well.

2. Ladle little spoonfuls of chili crisp on the freshly cooked pizza. Beware it, it’ll be a bit oily when you eat. 

Bonus — You can add it to any pizza, even takeout! Next time you buy a Hawaiian, consider ladling on some chili crisp, you’ll be surprised how much better it tastes.