At Mimi’s Focaccia, bread brings people together

On Instagram, you will find a semi-famous chef called Joe Sasto. Besides having an impeccable mustache, he has an ongoing series of focaccia videos called “Will it Foccacia?”, baking ever-increasingly outrageous and extravagant doughs. Birria focaccia? Tiramisu? It will never end, the algorithm always demanding more. 

Focaccia is one of the more forgiving dough recipes, because anything doused in olive oil and salt is bound to hit all our pleasure taste buds. The bread itself is in many ways a blank canvas, a creative expression for enterprising chefs.

In Vancouver, focaccia rarely takes centre stage, an accompaniment rather than the main dish. Di Beppe serves it with burrata, fresh and hot enough that you almost actually burn your fingers. Giusti, a new Italian place in the old Bar Susu spot, serves a golden circle, a vehicle for a lip-smacking olive oil and vinegar dip.

Every so often, the bread is elevated to more than a side dish. Over in Strathcona, you can find Focacciaza. “Focaccia Joe” as he calls himself, operates a bicycle-powered food cart and a small shop out of 1007 E Cordova St. 

Simply adorned, the focaccia is a street food, meant for lunch or snacking. Joe’s items are squarely focused on authenticity. Each slice is cheap, at $3.99 for cheese, garden or a daily special, and you can also grab a sandwich for $11.99. Yes, $11.99 in Vancouver.

My sandwich came with thin prosciutto, spinach and some mayo. It’s not a large sandwich by any measure, but for $12, it’s a light lunch when you’re on the go. The bread is the real star, with the olive oil flavour punching through with each bite. Traditionalists rejoice.

But lurking in the shadows, creativity flourishes. The best in the food industry push the boundaries of what constitutes certain dishes or food. Mimi’s Focaccia at 417 Industrial Ave. certainly does that.

Mimi’s was founded by Emily Jette — Mimi is her nickname — as an act of white-collar rejection that many dream of, but few do. “I was having a particularly bad day at my corporate job, and my husband asked me, ‘If you could start any business, what would it be?’” 

She landed on focaccia, a niche she felt that wasn’t being served. Rather than just focusing on food, Jette said her goal is to elevate the bread beyond just a side dish. “It can be its own thing, almost like a slice of pizza, with so many flavour possibilities.”

You can buy full loaves ($20) or slices ($6-7). She has her standards, like the Mimi ($7) with tomato, shallot and garlic. But she cycles through different flavours each Saturday pop-up, both savoury and sweet. I tried the Mini Donut, with cinnamon sugar folded throughout the dough. I can attest that the sweet concoction was excellent, with a crispy brown sugar top that would pair exceptionally well with a scoop of ice cream. 

She’s struck a nerve with locals. On my Saturday visit, the lines were out the door. Baggy jeans, beanies, oversized coats, I knew right away that Mount Pleasant, my people, heck, probably even my building neighbours, had migrated en masse for some bread. 

A one-woman operation, Jette handled the orders with ease, a veteran, albeit with only one month under her belt, slinging focaccia hot dogs (yes, that’s a thing) piled high behind her, heating up bread and passing out pre-orders. The line moved surprisingly fast, even as I peppered her with questions.

Sandwiches are also on offer until they run out, from the team at Eat Sunday’s. Operating next door in the commissary kitchen, they produce handmade sausage, salumi and other ethically raised pork products. 

I got the porchetta sandwich ($17), and believe me, when I say the photo, a massive mountain of thinly shaved Italian meat, does not do the size of the sandwich justice. It’s big. Half is sitting in my fridge. At that price, it’s a steal. While it could’ve used a bit more sauce or a punchy contrast with pickled or vinegar vegetables, you cannot deny the quality of the meat and bread. 

“The heart of the business is really about making something that brings people joy but also creating a space where people feel welcome and connect with each other,” Jette explained. “I want it to feel warm, approachable, fun, and like somewhere people genuinely want to come back to. Some of my favourite moments are when people stop by and stay longer than they planned, chat with each other, or bring a friend back the next week.”

It’s clear she’s succeeded, and it’s not hard to see why. With an excellent product, and mobile wine bar Vin Vin set up nearby, the cute tables and open space are the perfect place to grab a bite, relax, talk and of course, eat and drink, surrounded by friends.

There’s a common lament that young people aren’t getting outside enough, that it’s hard to connect, that there aren’t enough third spaces. Mimi’s Focaccia is proving that great bread, a little wine, and a creative vision have a way of bringing people together.